Komodo island

Komodo island beach
Originally uploaded by Mr Aaron.

LOCATION :

Komodo National Park lies in the Wallacea Region of Indonesia, identified by WWF and Conservation International as a global conservation priority area. The Park is located between the islands of Sumbawa and Flores at the border of the Nusa Tenggara Timur (NTT) and Nusa Tenggara Barat (NTP) provinces. It includes three major islands, Komodo, Rinca and Padar, and numerous smaller islands together totaling 603 km2 of land. The total size of Komodo National Park is presently 1,817 km2. Proposed extensions of 25 km2 of land (Banta Island) and 479 km2 of marine waters would bring the total surface area up to 2,321 km2.

HISTORY :

Komodo National Park was established in 1980 and was declared a World Heritage Site and a Man and Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1986. The park was initially established to conserve the unique Komodo dragon (Varanus komodoensis), first discovered by the scientific world in 1911 by J.K.H. Van Steyn. Since then conservation goals have expanded to protecting its entire biodiversity, both marine and terrestrial.

The majority of the people in and around the Park are fishermen originally from Bima (Sumbawa), Manggarai, South Flores, and South Sulawesi. Those from South Sulawesi are from the Suku Bajau or Bugis ethnic groups. The Suku Bajau were originally nomadic and moved from location to location in the region of Sulawesi, Nusa Tenggara and Maluku, to make their livelihoods. Descendents of the original people of Komodo, the Ata Modo, still live in Komodo, but there are no pure blood people left and their culture and language is slowly being integrated with the recent migrants.

Little is known of the early history of the Komodo islanders. They were subjects of the Sultanate of Bima, although the island’s remoteness from Bima meant its affairs were probably little troubled by the Sultanate other than by occasional demand for tribute.

DEMOGRAPHICS :

There are presently almost 4,000 inhabitants living within the park spread out over four settlements (Komodo, Rinca, Kerora, and Papagaran). All villages existed prior to 1980 before the area was declared a national park. In 1928 there were only 30 people living in Komodo Village, and approximately 250 people on Rinca Island in 1930. The population increased rapidly, and by 1999, there were 281 families numbering 1,169 people on Komodo, meaning that the local population had increased exponentially. Komodo Village has had the highest population increase of the villages within the Park, mostly due to migration by people from Sape, Manggarai, Madura, and South Sulawesi. The number of buildings in Kampung Komodo has increased rapidly from 30 houses in 1958, to 194 houses in 1994, and 270 houses in 2000. Papagaran village is similar in size, with 258 families totaling 1,078 people. As of 1999, Rinca’s population was 835, and Kerora's population was 185 people. The total population currently living in the Park is 3,267 people, while 16,816 people live in the area immediately surrounding the Park.

EDUCATION :

The average level of education in the villages of Komodo National Park is grade four of elementary school. There is an elementary school located in each of the villages, but new students are not recruited each year. On average, each village has four classes and four teachers. Most of the children from the small islands in the Kecamatan Komodo (Komodo, Rinca, Kerora, Papagaran, Mesa) do not finish elementary school. Less than 10% of those which do graduate from elementary school will continue to high school since the major economic opportunity (fishing) does not require further education. Children must be sent to Labuan Bajo to attend high school, but this is rarely done in fishermen’s families.

HEALTH :

Most of the villages located in and around the Park have few fresh water facilities available, if any, particularly during the dry season. Water quality declines during this time period and many people become ill. Malaria and diarrhea are rampant in the area. On Mesa island, with a population of around 1,500 people, there is no fresh water available. Fresh water is brought by boat in jerrycans from Labuan Bajo. Each family needs an average of Rp 100,000.- per month to buy fresh water (2000). Almost every village has a local medical facility with staff, and at least a paramedic. The quality of medical care facilities is low.

SOCIO-CULTURAL AND ANTHROPOLOGIC CONDITIONS :

Traditional Customs: Traditional communities in Komodo, Flores and Sumbawa have been subjected to outside influences and the influence of traditional customs is dwindling. Television, radio, and increased mobility have all played a part in accelerating the rate of change. There has been a steady influx of migrants into the area. At the moment nearly all villages consist of more than one ethnic group.

Religion: The majority of fishermen living in the villages in the vicinity of the Park are Muslims. Hajis have a strong influence in the dynamics of community development. Fishermen hailing from South Sulawesi (Bajau, Bugis) and Bima are mostly Moslems. The community from Manggarai are mostly Christians.

Anthropology and Language: There are several cultural sites within the Park, particularly on Komodo Island. These sites are not well documented, however, and there are many questions concerning the history of human inhabitance on the island. Outside the Park, in Warloka village on Flores, there is a Chinese trading post remnant of some interest. Archeological finds from this site have been looted in the recent past. Most communities in and around the Park can speak Bahasa Indonesia. Bajo language is the language used for daily communication in most communities.

TERRESTRIAL PHYSICAL ENVIRONMENT :

Topography: The topography is varied, with slopes from 0 – 80%. There is little flat ground, and that is generally located near the beach. The altitude varies from sea level to 735 m above sea level. The highest peak is Gunung Satalibo on Komodo Island.

Geology: The islands in Komodo National Park are volcanic in origin. The area is at the juncture of two continental plates: Sahul and Sunda. The friction of these two plates has led to large volcanic eruptions and caused the up-thrusting of coral reefs. Although there are no active volcanoes in the park, tremors from Gili Banta (last eruption 1957) and Gunung Sangeang Api (last eruption 1996) are common. West Komodo probably formed during the Jurasic era approximately 130 million years ago. East Komodo, Rinca, and Padar probably formed approximately 49 million years ago during the Eocene era.

Climate: Komodo National Park has little or no rainfall for approximately 8 months of the year, and is strongly impacted by monsoonal rains. High humidity levels year round are only found in the quasi-cloud forests on mountain tops and ridges. Temperatures generally range from 170C to 340C, with an average humidity level of 36%. From November through March the wind is from the west and causes large waves that hit the entire length of Komodo island’s west beach. From April through October the wind is dry and large waves hit the south beaches of Rinca and Komodo islands.

TERRESTRIAL ECOSYSTEMS :

The terrestrial ecosystems are strongly affected by the climate: a lengthy dry season with high temperatures and low rainfall, and seasonal monsoon rains. The Park is situated in a transition zone between Australian and Asian flora and fauna. Terrestrial ecosystems include open grass-woodland savanna, tropical deciduous (monsoon) forest, and quasi cloud forest.

Due to the dry climate, terrestrial plant species richness is relatively low. The majority of terrestrial species are xerophytic and have specific adaptations to help them obtain and retain water. Past fires have selected for species that are fire-adapted, such as some grass species and shrubs. Terrestrial plants found in Komodo National Park include grasses, shrubs, orchids, and trees. Important food tree species for the local fauna include Jatropha curkas, Zizyphus sp., Opuntia sp., Tamarindus indicus, Borassus flabellifer, Sterculia foetida, Ficus sp., Cicus sp., ‘Kedongdong hutan’ (Saruga floribunda), and ‘Kesambi’ (Schleichera oleosa).

TERRESTRIAL FAUNA :

The terrestrial fauna is of rather poor diversity in comparison to the marine fauna. The number of terrestrial animal species found in the Park is not high, but the area is important from a conservation perspective as some species are endemic.. Many of the mammals are Asiatic in origin (e.g., deer, pig, macaques, civet). Several of the reptiles and birds are Australian in origin. These include the orange-footed scrubfowl, the lesser sulpher-crested cockatoo and the nosy friarbird.

Reptiles: The most famous of Komodo National Park's reptiles is the Komodo Dragon (Varanus komodoensis). It is among the world's largest reptiles and can reach 3 meters or more in length and weigh over 70kg.
Other than the Komodo Dragon twelve terrestrial snake species are found on the island. including the cobra (Naja naja sputatrix), Russel’s pit viper (Vipera russeli), and the green tree vipers (Trimeresurus albolabris). Lizards include 9 skink species (Scinidae), geckos (Gekkonidae), limbless lizards (Dibamidae), and, of course, the monitor lizards (Varanidae). Frogs include the Asian Bullfrog (Kaloula baleata), Oreophyne jeffersoniana and Oreophyne darewskyi. They are typically found at higher, moister altitudes.

Mammals: Mammals include the Timor deer (Cervus timorensis), the main prey of the Komodo dragon, horses (Equus sp.), water buffalo (Bubalus bubalis), wild boar (Sus scrofa vittatus), long-tailed macaques (Macaca fascicularis), palm civets (Paradoxurus hermaphroditus lehmanni), the endemic Rinca rat (Rattus rintjanus), and fruit bats. One can also find goats, dogs and domestic cats.

Birds: One of the main bird species is the orange-footed scrub fowl (Megapodius reinwardti), a ground dwelling bird. In areas of savanna, 27 species were observed. Geopelia striata and Streptopelia chinensis were the most common species. In mixed deciduous habitat, 28 bird species were observed, and Philemon buceroides, Ducula aenea, and Zosterops chloris were the most common.

MARINE PHYSICAL ENVIRONMENT :

The marine area constitutes 67% of the Park. The open waters in the Park are between 100 and 200 m deep. The straits between Rinca and Flores and between Padar and Rinca, are relatively shallow (30 to 70 m deep), with strong tidal currents. The combination of strong currents, coral reefs and islets make navigation around the islands in Komodo National Park difficult and dangerous. Sheltered deep anchorage is available at the bay of Loh Liang on Komodo’s east coast, the South East coast of Padar, and the bays of Loh Kima and Loh Dasami on Rinca.

In the North of the Park water temperature ranges between 25 – 29°C. In the middle, the temperature ranges between 24 and 28°C. The temperatures are lowest in the South, ranging from 22 – 28°C. Water salinity is about 34 ppt and the water is quite clear, although the waters closer to the islands are relatively more turbid.

MARINE ECOSYSTEMS :

Indonesia is the only equatorial region in the world where there is an exchange of marine flora and fauna between the Indian and Pacific oceans. Passages in Nusa Tenggara (formerly the Lesser Sunda Islands) between the Sunda and Sahul shelves allow movement between the Pacific and Indian oceans. The three main ecosystems in Komodo National Park are seagrass beds, coral reefs, and mangrove forests. The Park is probably a regular cetacean migration route.

MARINE FLORA :

The three major coastal marine plants are algae, seagrasses and mangrove trees. Algae are primitive plants, which do not have true roots, leaves or stems. An important reef-building algae is the red coralline algae, which actually secretes a hard limestone skeleton that can encrust and cement dead coral together. Seagrasses are modern plants that produce flowers, fruits and seeds for reproduction. As their name suggests, they generally look like large blades of grass growing underwater in sand near the shore. Thallasia sp. and Zastera spp. are the common species found in the Park. Mangroves trees can live in salty soil or water, and are found throughout the Park. An assessment of mangrove resources identified at least 19 species of true mangroves and several more species of mangrove associates within the Park's borders.

MARINE FAUNA :

Komodo National Park includes one of the world's richest marine environments. It consists of forams, cnidaria (includes over 260 species of reef building coral), sponges (70 species), ascidians, marine worms, mollusks, echinoderms, crustaceans, cartilaginous and bony fishes (over 1,000 species), marine reptiles, and marine mammals (dolphins, whales, and dugongs). Some notable species with high commercial value include sea cucumbers (Holothuria), Napoleon wrasse (Cheilinus undulatus), and groupers.

Mentawai, Siberut

The Mentawais people (around 30,000) live in the Pugai Islands located on the West coast of Sumatra main island.

The islands -Siberut, Sipora, North Pugai and South Pugai- are generally hilly, with a few mangrove swamps and gray sandy beaches.

The Mantawais islanders have traditionally settled inland along riverbanks. Long locked in their own time and space, they were, until not long ago, isolated from the rest of the Indonesian archipelago. The 5000, or so, native inhabitants of interior Seribut, the Sakkudai, have evolved a unique and fascinating belief system. Their belief in magic is still prevalent and they still practice ritual taboos.

The old religion based on animism, teaches that everything, everywhere, is alive and possesses a soul, including 'non-living' objects. No objects is ever thrown away while it's still functionning.

Too much soul stress is the primary explanation for illness and death, as well as accidents, long period of fruitless huntingor the withering of plants. It's an insult to ask someone to hurry: "moile, moile" (slowly, slowly) is one of their common calls, meaning "be good to your soul".

A traditonal "uma" is a village under one roaf, which can accomodate 5 to 10 families related to each aother through the male line. Each family has its own section of the uma as well as a field home some distance away where they raise pigs and chickens and bananas gathered sago and fishes.

Today only a few of these large communal dwellings remain.In the traditional uma, children grow-up freely, without constraints or formal education.

Boys and girls imitate the activities of adults in their plays. Toward the end of puberty, adolescents are tatooed their incisors chiseled to a point, then the boys strat to acquire property of their own.

The girls help their mothers, but only when married do they acquire responsability and possessions.

Parijs von Java

Elysian Fields
Originally uploaded by javajive.

With over two milion people ( almost four milion when border cities are included ), Bandung is the third city in Indonesia. It's also the governmental and commercial capital city of West-Jawa. Bandung was mainly designed around the 1920's by Dutch townplanners; it was to be the first 'modern' city of the Dutch Indies. Today Bandung is probably still the most 'European' city of Indonesia.
Bandung is located 187 southeast of Jakarta, just in the middle of the beautifull Priangan highlands. It has an remarkably mild climate with an average of about 22,5 degrees Celcius. Most inhabitante see the city as the most habitable city of Jawa, however on average it rains 144 days a year ( mainly between November and April ).
The city is located on a plateau at an altitude of 768 metres, and is surrounded at all sides by threathening vulcanoes and imposant mountains. Fast flowing rivers have made steep valleys and come together in the River Citarum, which mouths in the Jawa Sea at Karawang, East of Jakarta.
The are around Bandung is used for growing ricem, the hillsides are covered with tea-, rubber-, coffee-, and kina-plantations. The mild climate is profitable for vegetable-, and fruit-cultures. Bandung has food-processing plants and is also an industrial centre which rules the textile production in entire Indonesia. It's also the seat of the upcoming high-tech industries of the country, for example computer assembly and planefactories.
The city also houses a number of universities and academies, under which the prestigious Institut Teknologi Bandung ( ITB ), the oldest technical institute in Indonesia. It also has a centre which monitors the vulcanoes on Jawa, and a centre for nuclear research. Bandung was founded only in the 19th century with the foundation of a small Dutch outpost. In that time the area was still densely forested and little populated. Stretches of swamps reminded of the enormous lake - the legendaric 'Situ Hiang'or 'Lake of the Gods' - which streched over the entire basin. To reach the inaccessible area a heavy journey with boats, rafts and other equipment over the River Citarum and River Cimanuk was inevitable. In 1786 a bridle path was caved out in the plateas, and in 1789 the first coffee plantation appeared on the southern flanks of the vulcano 'Tangkuban Perahu' ( Upside down boat ), which dominated the northern edge of the basin.

The 'Paris of Jawa'

Between 1808 and 1810 the reformational governor-general Daendels ordered the construction of a postal road, which connected Batavia with Central-, and Eastern Jawa through the Priangan highlands. After that he ordered the Sundanese leaders of Tatar Ukur - the name of the area around Bandung at that time - to move to the area where the postal road crossed the River Cikapundung, nowadays calles Jalan Asia - Afrika.
The area still was not densely populated, but during the rule of Raffles ( 1811-1815 ) some state-owned areas were sold to private companies. They turned the forested slopes into coffee-, tea-, and kina plantations. Between 1831 and 1870 - the time of the strict cultural system - the Dutch booked some 823 milion Guilders to their homeland, of wich 75% came directly from the sale of coffee from this area.
With the end of the cultural system in 1870, the Priangan was opened more and more for private investors, and the number of plantations rose to more than 150. Around 1902 there were no less than 82 tea plantations in use, and in 1930 about sixty kina plantations produced 90 per cent of the world production. However the surrounding slopes were cultivated by rich Preangerplanters, the city still leaped behind.
This all changed with the construction of a railroad between Batavia and Bandung in 1884. Ten years later the railroad was extended towards Yogyakarta, Solo and Surabaya. Because of that, Bandung became an important stop at the trans-Jawa railroad, but it still stayed small. In 1896 the city counted 29.386 residents ( of which 1250 Europeans ), though Bandung became the capital of Priangan Recency in 1964.

After 1918 construction of the new city started north of the oud trading quarter, close to the nowadays Gedung Sate and Dago. The annual markets in June and July attracted many foreign visitors and attention. Because of a precise planning and a booming local economy, which brought in huge profits, Bandung developped into the most modern and European city of the Dutch Indies. Because of it's elegant boulevards and fashion shops and houses the city became the 'Paris of Jawa'.
Jalan Braga was the centre of Bandung in those days, the 'most famous shopping street of the Dutch Indies'. People bought their fitted clothing, a splendid night-gown, an Swiss watch, an imported cigar and the newest Packard coupe over here. When the shops closed down for the night, the alleys from Jalan Braga in the quarter Margawati wake up, planters who have worked hard all day long made the nightlife in cafe's and brothels in the area.
The twenties became the 'Golden Century'of Bandung, also because of the colonial decision to move the governmental centre to the edge of the city. Big firms settled their headquarters and factories in the new buildings in the city, so even more money came in, in the already rich area. Bandung also became a famous tourist destinatoon; in 1941 it attracted about 200,000 visitors.
The after-war Banfung was overshadowed by Jakarta. Only the Asian-African conferention in 1955, visited by Nehru, Nasser, u Nu, Chou En-lai en Ho Chi Minh and Sukarno as host brought short international fame to the city.
As well asl Jakarta, Bandung had to deal with a tremendous ammount of farmers flocking to the city over the years. The number of residents increased from 226,887 in 1941 ro over one milion in 1960, and to more than double that ammount in 1990. This caused the infrastructure and public services to overload, with all problems like traffic, pollution and crime.
Bandung no longer is the elegant 'Paris of Jawa' of the pre-war period, but real lovers of past times can still find things from the past. The Savoy Homann Hotel and BPD Jawa Barat building ( at the corner of Jalan Braga and Jalan naripan ) are typical creations from the art deco style. The green Jalan Dago and Jalan pasteur give an good image of how it should have looked like in the colonial time. And the impressive Gedung Sate ( lit. Sate building ), because of it's look-a-like shape ) is an example of the Indo-European architecture and one of the most remarkable buildings in Indonesia. Nowadays it's the seat of the provincial government of West-Jawa.
Bandung is also an cultural and intellectual centre. It's role as centre of the Sundanese culture was founded at the end of the 19th century. Before that, the Sundanese people and it's political power was concentrated in Sumedang, Ciamis, Bogor and Cianjur. After the recency leaders movedg from Cianjur to Banfung in 1864, the traditional art flourished too. Nowadays Bandung is just as famous among artists, writers and academic people to live in as Jakarta. The most refreshing and re artistical and political movements are inspired by the progressive student population in bandung. The Siliwangi Division is seen at the most disciplined and skilled division of the Indonesian army ever since.
Sundanese women are the most beautifull of the country, following Indonesian rules. Because of the climate, their skin is lighter than the skin of other Indonesian people, and because of the many vegetables in their food it is said thay they have a very soft skin as well. The ladies from Bandung are fashion minded and aimed at the future. The nichname of the city - 'Kota Kembang - ( Flower City ) - more is a nickname for the female attractions than the bushes in the city.

Bandung through nostalgic glasses

Tourist come to Bandung mainly for escaping from the heat in Jakarta, and to view the colonial remains in the city. A good start is a walk through the area around Jalan Asia-Afrika and Jalan Braga. In the past times this was the shopping and tourist area. 'Gedung Merdeka' ( Freedom Building ) was used for the Asian African convention of 1955. Before it was the Concordia Society, an elegant high-societyu club, built in 1879. The building now houses a museum with documents and pictures of the Bandung conference.
At the Eastern side of Jalan Asia-Afrika, two hotels from the thirties are located directly across the street. the art-deco Savoy Homann and Preanger. At the other side, past the bridge over the River Cikapundung, the city square or alun-alun is located, this is the spot of the original place of the 19th century village. Northwest of the city square is the market district of Pasar Baru ( New Market ), which is ruled by Chinese traders.
Turn north into Jalan Braga from Jalan Asia-Afrika. The old Dutch stores look somewhat poor. On the left is then Majestic Cinema, built in Indo-European style of the early twenties. The building besides offered space for 'Au Bon Maché', formet haute-couture. Across the street a cafe and Braga Permai (a department store ) are located. This department store was the former location of the Maison Bogerijen restaurant, the place where teachers had their lunch at exactly one o'clock in the afternoon, and where rich plantation owners stuffed themselves with French haute cuisine every Sunday evening.
Two kilometres Northeast of Jalan Braga,close to the Gedung Sate, is the European 'new city'. In the Geological Museum at Jalan Diponegoro replica's of fossiles from the Jawa-man are shown. The cartographic department at the back sells detailed maps of Indonesia.
Turn towards the Technological Institute ( ITB ) from Gedung Sate. The nice and green streets are finished with beautifull colonial houses. The remarkable buildings of the university were designed by Maclaine Pont, one of the first and most influential advocates of the 'Indo-European' style, who wanted to use Indonesian forms as well as modern western techniques. The 'upside down' roofs are designed after traditional Batak-, and Minanghouses, while the library is one big honey comb from wood.
Directly behind the campus of the Pajajaran Univesity is the Dago Teahouse, with a view over the city and the nearby falls. Walk from the ITB to the zoo to the 'Babakan Siliwangi' restaurant, a traditional Sundanese 'pondok', consisting from five pavillions on pawls above fish ponds. Both are on walking distance from the Univestiry, though the tea house is still a fairly heavy ascendance.

Manado Tua

Manado Tua
Originally uploaded by AnRiLe.

Manado, the nice capital of North Sulawesi, stretched over the low hills with coconut trees alon a wide bay. Three vulcanoes offer a spectacular backgrouns. Because the city only has a limited number of attractions, the traveller is expected to be mainly interested as it's bas to explore the Tondano area and the beautiful sea around Bunaken.
Manado gained in importance during the early colonial period and later grew into the position of the center of Minahasa, traditionally settled around Danau Tondano. The city is mainly Christian, an heiritage of several centuries of Portuguese and Dutch rule. There are over 250 churches, and new ones are still build. The church has a key position in the community; at Sundays the streets are filled with properly dresses church goers.
Until the early 1960's the most important seaport is closed due to erosion now. Nowadays most ships continue to the harbor of Bitung, located across the northern peninsula and better protected against bad weather because the nearby Pulau Lembeh. There is still a posibility to go noth by boat to the most important islands of the Sangihe-Talaud archipelago: Siau, Sangihe (Tahuna), Salibabu (Lirung) and Karakelong (Beo), and also to Ternate, Toli-Toli and Ambon.

The Buddhist-Confucianist temple Ban Hian Kiong, along Jl. Panjaitan in the center, was built in the early 19th century and was restaurated in 1974 after it was partially demolished by vandals. Two weeks after the Chinese new year, the fifteenth of the first moon month, the Cap Go Mei celebration is held here, for Chinese communities in entire Southeast Asia. Residents practice all kinds of fortune telling. The upper floor or the temple offers a very nice view over the inner city. Oddly enough the temple displays a series of objects from Portuguese origin. You can also see a number of VOC cannons.
The museum of North Sulawesi along Jl. W.R. Supratman displays an interesting collection of historic and cultural antiquities from the entire province. There are miniatures, odd instruments and a cruel looking game with nails. Guides are well-informed, but their English generally isn't good.
The wide Piere Tandean Boulevard runs along the coast for four kilometers, from the southern suburbs to the harbor, while little boats float on the foreground and the Manado Tua rises from the sea at a distance, you can enjoy beautiful sunsets here. Numerous food stalls and wanderers bring this area alife in the evenings.
The downtown area, overloaded with small shops and crowded traffic, concludes a relatively small area south of the harbor, close to the Jumbu supermarket and the main bemo station where all roads come together. You can take a minibus to stations outside the city here, for travelling more outside the city.

The seagardens of Bunaken

The coral reefs around the Bunaken islands have gained in popularity among lovers of seafauna and -flora. The Bunaken-Manado Tua Marine Park concists around 75,000 hectares, is located less than one hour from Manado and offers perfect snorkling and diving possilibities. Until some years ago, the quality of the diving equipment wasn't worth much, but this is all gone now. The diving gear is in good condition, boats are better and the guides speak English as well.
The clear water, with an average temperature of 27°C, houses a large variety of reef fish: nice, healthy coral and many other animals which is a part of the underwater population, from spunges to squids.
There are about two dozen diving locations around the five islands which form the reserve. The safest and most visited spot for diving is the protected southern inlet of Pulau Bunaken with it's steep 'underwater walls'. A number of families offer a place to sleap and food. The reserve is protected by law against harpoon fishing, collecting of coral or fish, and against fishing with dynamite. Most travellers stay in one of the many diving centers which are located outside Manado.
This sea reserve offers several diving locations, but the vertical underwater walls are the biggest attraction. These unique walls are covered in cracks and shallow caves, in which reef fish shelter, an on which hard and soft corals, spunges and other sea life grows.
The reef at a depth of five meters is rich with all kinds of brightly colored sealife and is a good place to spend your decompression time or to make a safety stop. You can meet a seasnake here, while it is looking for something to eat in small corners. These snakes are very poisonous, but are rarely agressive - diving guides often brag with pulling them out of their hiding place. Rather don't do this yourself.
While the underwater walls form an uninterrupted play of marine life, you should also have a look at the open sea as well: here you will find bigger marine life. Diving guides know what there is to see for you, sometimes even the non-dangerous reefshark. You should not worry about the sharks, but be more beware of the blue finned fish, especially when they are alone. The fish defend their breed withe verything they have. The beak of the fish is too small to do damage, but the strong back teeth can pull off ears or make wounds which need to be stitched.
Also be very carefull for stingrays, especially the big ones. These rays are no manta's. An Italian diver made the fatal error to make a trip on a stingray, when the poisonous sting stuck in his chest. The man barely reached the surface and died because of heavy blood loss on his way to the hospital. Respect this golden diving rule: look, but don't touch!
Starting and experienced divers can dive all they want in the areas south of Bunaken. Divers with experience which strong currents and depths of 30 meters, probably would like to try some locations at the other side of Bunaken: Sachiko's Point, where you can often find tuna and water turtles, or Mike's Point, which has a big concentration of reef fish and small marine life.
Deepsea divers can also explore Batu Kapal at Pulau Nain, named after the layer of earth in the shape of a ship, at a depth of 42 meters. Here is a narrow ravine - with a depth of at least 90 meter.
At depths like these, camera's are best left ashore. Two divers tried this (with a single oxygen bottle) and saw how their lights and depth meters imploded!
The wreck close to Molas, is located at a depth of 25 and 40 meters, and gives enough pleasure. Nightdiving at Bunaken is an exciting experience, for experienced as well as beginning divers.
Besides the lunches with other divers ar Bunaken, there are several other options to spend your day. You can visit the friendly Bajau community at Pulai Montehaje. The people live in pillar dwellings which were built in the shallow estuary in the north of the island.

Volcanoes and dolphins

You can also climb the dormant Gunung Manado Tua. It isn't usefull to climb the full 882 meters to the crater, since it is completely covered in vegetation, which obscures any view from there. From the steep slopes you have a beautiful view over the island, surrounded by shallow blue waters which transforms to deep blue. In the remote distance, on the mainland, you can see Gunung Klabat.
During boat trips you can see a whale and sometimes a group of dolphins. For those who don't want to get into the water, there are also boats with a glass bottom, which sail to the reserve when there are enough passengers. It is smart to avoid the period between December and March, when heavy monsoon rains and winds make the sea rough.

Pulau Bangka

Divers, snorklers and campers which are interested in a long trip through a beautiful landscape, can make a trip to Pulau Bangka throughout the year. Diving along the coast of Bangka was made possible by dr. Hanny B atuna from the Murex diving center. This center offers a very pleasurable trip to Bangka, in which you can return overland.
The boat trip to Bangka is unforgettable. As soon as you leave from the mainland and leave behing the Lokon and Mahawu vulcanoes, Gunung Manado Tua appears, surrounded by clouds, in the north behind the low Bunaken. In the early morning and the late afternoon, small boats cross the water between Bunaken and Sulawesi.
In the direction of the Minahasa peninsula, the Gunung Klabat summit (1995 meters) dominates the mainland east of Manadfo and it will be a point of reference for the biggest part of the trip. Beyond Tanjung Tarawitan, the northernmost tip of Sulawesi, the hills of the Tangkoko-Batuangus-Dua Saudara reserve rise in the south and Pulau Talisei in the north. The big white buildings on Talisai belong to a pearl farm from the Japanese.
Pulau Bangka, branded by many bays and hills, doesn't have many white beaches since the vegetation usually grows as far as the water line. Off the coast are fishing areas where boats fish together.
The sharp rocks rise from the sea in front of the southern and southeastern part of Bangka. Dr. Hanny Batuna discovered some very extraordinary diving locations here. The rocky landscape is also continued under the sealevel and the variation of soft corals is breathtaking. This is a very good place for snorkling.
At some locations, where the rocks run down vertically, big schools of fish more look like a blizzard. You can also see huge fish around Bangka: sharks, barracudas and all kinds of other big fish. Under a table coral there are sometimes little sharks. There is often a strong current in this area; you should have some experience before diving here.
Usually you can enjoy your lunch in the shade on a white beach. Too bad this scene isn't always that idyllic: most animal lovers will probably don't like the big nets near the floating houses. This company was started in 1991 with the only purpose to catch life fish which are sold to Hong Kong. It took several years before this kind of fish reach their big size, and looking at this shameless exploitation of nature in a beautiful location as Bunaken is bitter. Before the return to Manado you have the choice between a beautiful trip through from the village of Likupang on the mainland, or the same trip by boat so you can experience the unique sunset in front of Manado Tua.
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'Watch the dog'

Manado has a big variety of shops, hotels and restaurants. It is a service and governmental center for the entire province and because of that it has numerous of educational locations, banks and government buildings. The city has little architectural important buildings, but the center of the city, branded by the relatively high level of wealth, has lively shops which are filled to the roof with all kinds of cheap goods.
Who can get up early, should visit the fish market for sure. Before sunrise, the first fish is sold here.
Pasar Bersehati, located besides the fish market, is the biggest food market in the city and is loaded with a huge volume of fresh products, meat, fish and chicken. A part of the market is dedicated to freshly slaughtered dog, a local delicatesse: 'RW'. Who watches for signs with these two letters, can avoid this spiced dish, or just try it as well. Foreigners are rare here; they are often watched at or even followed.

The Mistycal of Mount Bromo

The Mistycal of Mount Bromo
Originally uploaded by Bali Photography - Bali Photographer.

Kesodho is a legend about the creation of Mount Bromo, a famous mountain in East Java, which is so famous with the beautifulness of sun rises panorama on it's peak.

Hundred years ago, during the reign of the last king of Majapahit (13-14 century AD), Brawijaya, one of the King's wives gave birth to a girl, Roro Anteng. Later she got married to Joko Seger, from Brahman (priests) caste. Because of an unfortunate situation, they were forced to leave the kingdom. They settled an area in the mountain, named it "Tengger."

For years, they were unhappy because they didn't have a child. They climbed the peak of the mountain, prayed to gods. Betara Bromo (God of Fire) promised them many children, but they have to sacrifice their youngest children.
They finally got 25 children, and they had to sacrifice the youngest, Kesuma, but they hid him. But an eruption happened and Kesuma fell into the crater. Then his voice heard: "I have to be sacrificed so that you will all stay alive. From now on you should arrange an annual ceremony on the 14th of Kesodo."

Today, Kesada also sees the initiation of new shamans as well as the installation of government officials and other distinguished people chosen by the Tengger community as their revered elders. which takes place in the 12th month. The mass commemoration is held in villages around Mt. Bromo and on the summit's edge overlooking its crater. After observing prayers on a sandy plain surrounding the mountain, the ceremony climaxes with making sacrificial offerings to Mt. Bromo: Fruits and other foodstuffs, animals and even money are thrown into the crater to ensure the safety of future Tengger generations.

Trek notes

• The number of tourists to Mt. Bromo has been increasing, with 500-1,000 people visiting the mountain weekly. Some 50-60 percent of visitors to East Java stop by this destination.
• Mt. Bromo is easily accessible through Ngadisari, a tourist village at the foot of the volcano. Several hotels, including Hotel Bromo Permai I, are available for visitors at Cemorolawang, a hamlet that can be reached from Probolinggo by bus for Rp 5,000 or by chartered car for Rp 60,000.
• Probolinggo is 99 km from Surabaya, and is accessible by bus or private car.
• To reach Cemorolawang from Surabaya by private car, it is not necessary to go via Probolinggo bus terminal. Head for Tongas, about 12 km from Surabaya, then to Sukapura and to Ngadisari, finally reaching Cemorolawang.
• Mt. Bromo can be scaled by trekking up from Cemorolawang to the crater through the sand plains, or "desert".
• Visitors can also hire horses or jeeps, particularly at weekends and on Mondays. Jeeps cost Rp 125,000 from Cemorolawang to Mt. Pananjakan; a day trip traversing Cemorolawang-Pananjakan-Ranu Pane and back again costs Rp 250,000.

Prambanan, Yogyakarta

Pradjaparamitha
Originally uploaded by blackinjpn.

Prambanan is the largest Hindu temple compound in Indonesia, located in central Java, approximately 18 km east of Yogyakarta. It was built around 850 CE by either Rakai Pikatan, king of the second Mataram dynasty or Balitung Maha Sambu, during the Sanjaya dynasty. Not long after its construction, the temple was abandoned and began to deteriorate.

The reconstruction of the compound began in 1918, and is currently unfinished. The main building has only been completed in 1953, since it is next to impossible to find the original stonework, which has often been stolen and reused at remote construction sites. A temple will only be rebuilt if at least 75% of the original stones are available. Therefore, from most of the smaller shrines one can still see not much more than their foundation walls.

Today, it is an UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the largest Hindu temples in south-east Asia. It is characterised by its tall and pointed architecture, typical for the hindu temple architecture, and by the 47m high central building inside a large complex of individual temples.

The compound is assembled of eight main shrines or candis, and more than 250 surrounding individual candis. The three main shrines, called Trisakti (Ind. "three sacred places"), are dedicated to the three gods Shiva the Destroyer, Vishnu the Keeper and Brahma the Creator.

The Shiva shrine at the center contains four chambers, one in every cardinal direction. While the first contains a three meter high statue of Shiva, the other three contain smaller statues of Durga, his wife, Agastya, his teacher, and Ganesha, his son. The statue of Durga is also called temple of Loro Jongrang (slender virgin), after a Javanese princess, daughter of King Boko. She was forced to marry a man she did not love, Bandung Bondowoso. After long negotiations she eventually agreed to the marriage, under the condition that her prince built her a temple ornamented with 1000 statues, between the setting and the rising of the sun. Helped by supernatural beings, the prince was about to succeed. So the princess ordered the women of the village to set a fire in the east of the temple, attempting to make the prince believe that the sun was about to rise. As the cocks began to crow, fooled by the light, the supernatural helpers fled. The prince, furious about the simple trick, changed Loro Jongrang to stone. She became the last and the most beautiful of the thousand statues.

The two other main shrines are that of Vishnu, to the north, and the one of Brahma, facing to the south. In front of each main temple is a smaller candis on the east side, dedicated to the mounts of the respective god - the bull Nandi for Shiva, the gander Angsa for Brahma, and Vishnus Eagle Garuda, which serves as the national symbol of Indonesia (cf. also to the airline Garuda Indonesia).

The bas-reliefs along the twenty sides of the temple depict the Ramayana legend. They illustrate how Sita, the wife of Rama, is abducted by an evil ogre. The monkey king Hanuman brings his army to help Rama and rescue Sita. This story is also shown by the Ramayana Ballet, regularly performed at full moon in front of the illuminated Prambanan complex.


The temple complex is surrounded by more than 250 individual temples of different sizes, called Pewara, believed to have been offered to the king as a sign of submission. The Pewara are arranged in four rows around the central temples, according to the rank of the people allowed to enter them. While the central row was accessible to the priests only, the other three were reserved for the nobles, the knights and the simple people respectively.

Not far to the west Candi Kalasan and Candi Sari, and to the south the palace of Ratu Boko on higher ground - each provide further clues and details to the Prambanan complex and some of its mysteries.